An ancient hunting lodge built in the fifteenth century by Cardinal Silvio Passerini, protected by the Medici family and friend of Pope Leo X – and today a luxurious 5-star hotel in the heart of the Valle dell’Esse, a secret treasure chest on the outskirts of Cortona, on the border between Umbria and Tuscany. Let’s see what are the services open to the local community and for those who do not stay directly in the structure but had the desire to know it and spend ‘moments of forgetfulness’ – so Totò described, together with poet Giacomo Leopardi, happiness.
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That of ‘housewife’ is actually a role that she much prefers to ‘chef’ and that she wants to highlight. This ancient craft is the beating heart of the recent agri-restaurant, inaugurated in 2019. Marcelli – since birth already practically destined to become a housewife like his grandmother Giustina – has done and continues to do an important work of family economy, managing the kitchen almost in complete autonomy and basing it exclusively on the rural products of the earth.
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A place whose philosophy is precise: to offer diners an unforgettable and one hundred percent Tuscan experience, thanks to the processing of exceptional raw materials to embellish beautiful and delicious dishes
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What is known today as ‘Passioni Lucio’ is the fortunate intuition of patron Lucio Tabarrini himself. Starting from an encyclopaedic knowledge of the world of meat, Lucio developed a project completely centred on a very ambitious and, for the times, a futuristic attempt: to win over friends and customers with an experience of absolute quality, of strong ties with the territory, of enhancing the differences and nature of individual products and productions – precisely because of their origin and thanks to the skill of the hands that laboriously forged them.
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“Our desire ̶ founder and owner Amedeo Cencioni tells me ̶ is to provide a memorable experience for our guests and those who come to visit us to enjoy our attractive, flavourful meals”. Our vegetables for example come directly from the biodynamic garden adjacent to the restaurant; the meat is all Tuscan, while the wine list encompasses in particular the territory of Montalcino and the Val d’Orcia”.
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A visit to Emma’s Tavern: “always involves food and drink ̶ Alessandro tells me ̶ and we offer absolutely irresistible platters with different cold cuts, such as finocchiona, prosciutto, Tuscan salami, capocollo, spicy ventricina, rolled pancetta, but also grilled vegetables and cheeses and they are all local products”.
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Chef Alessandro Chiesa together with the Castello di Albola brigade brings his interpretation of the “Albola Experience” to the table of the lucky visitors again this year, in an exciting tasting and gastronomic journey, experimenting and innovating Tuscan cuisine, made up of very historic recipes and raw materials of the highest quality that find new interesting applications
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A scenographic, dreamy dining room for a renovated structure in a natural context of absolute value: the ‘Fiscoli’ chandeliers hover like exotic birds, white and graceful – while we access the large, perfectly harmonious environment on the banks of the River Pesa, near San Casciano. We are at “Il Fiscolo”, where Wynn Gabriel, owner & manager of the restaurant, the chef Teresa Chietti and her inseparable assistant Elisabetta Torricelli join us.
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But let’s get to the tasting that was dedicated to us: we start with the curious, opulent, speciality of the pizzeria, that “Scarpetta” which refers to the same all-Italian custom, made with ‘Authentic Integrated Grinding Flour’ from the famous mill mentioned above .. Our ‘scarpetta’ (small shoe) is with “Pecorino fondue, nduja, crispy bacon and pepper powder” and is an extra-menu, recurring in the restaurant that follows the best of the market. Large and baroque alveolation, it seems that it opens and closes like an accordion, perfectly absorbing the ‘sauce’.
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In fact, history and tradition have been intertwined since the times of the ancient fair promoted by the meritorious Lega del Chianti …
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We meet the Milanese chef – but Tuscan by adoption – Alessandro Chiesa, while he’s baking strictly homemade bread in a wood oven: he has been at the reins of the brigade for a year now… – being in a castle let’s say “at the reins of his kitchen garrison!”
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Here we can taste traditional Tuscan and Chianti dishes and wines, punctually served à la carte; or sit in the back garden for a bucolic, ‘boxed’ picnic, recalling our childhood.
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The atmosphere is familiar and informal, but also extremely elegant: the beautiful veranda on the course of Sansepolcro during the Christmas holidays is adorned with lights, the atmosphere is even warmer, there is the desire to take a break from the working rhythms and enjoy a typical Tuscan appetizer, a good wine, a cut juniper and rosemary… But also a cod and shrimp difficult to find in the other restaurants in the area, because the cook Nicoleta has a great skill in cooking fish and in combining its flavors with those of the Tuscan tradition.
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The format and concept of Casina Kitch is that of a gourmet Hamburger joint: high-level hamburgers starting from a personalized bun recipe, with local low-food-miles products ̶ an effort that Gabriele takes care of personally and daily: “I designed the place without ever thinking of having a freezer”, he tells us as he employs an uncompromising express cooking concept.
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There is a real air of novelty at the Loggia del Chianti: from this year Simone resumes his role in the family business, determined to leave his mark in what has always been his parents’ place.
A professional rugby player, in the past he has dedicated time and love to this family project, but lately he has understood that to take a step forward he had to dedicate all of himself to the restaurant.
The La Chiantina restaurant, a true reference point for many Castellina gourmets, changed management six years ago, with Salvatore D’Alessandro, manager and pizza chef of the restaurant at its head.
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