By Simone Bandini
We are still in Tuscany, in Valcerfone, but literally a stone’s throw from Umbria: two different but in some ways similar regions, between classic forms and authenticity, where ancient country recipes are still handed down. La Pieve Vecchia is a finely restored farmhouse – with a sensational view of the village of Monterchi and the scenery to the west that were paintings by Piero della Francesca, a place that perfectly represents this passage and meeting of regions, in its simple and careful cuisine, in the dishes that are delicate and robust at the same time, as tradition dictates.
Today we have the pleasure of delving into the history, philosophy and evolution of this restaurant with Andrea Fontana. For over twenty years he has been a point of reference for local and foreign gourmands, with his keen eye for rural customs and historical roots and the desire to interpret them in an original way; Thus it stands out for a culinary offer that skilfully blends the flavours of two regions rich in history and culture. So let’s find out together how the business has progressed, what are the novelties for the spring season and the proposal of its menus.
VALLEY LIFE: Can you tell us what are the updates regarding the restaurant, especially the outdoor spaces with the arrival of the summer?
ANDREA FONTANA: The restaurant, open for almost a quarter of a century, is preparing to welcome the spring season with great enthusiasm and some novelties. The structure, immersed in an evocative natural context, offers outdoor spaces that become absolute protagonists in the warmer months. The hope is that soon we will be able to go back to eating out, enjoying the mild climate and the surrounding landscape. This is a very important moment because it allows us to enhance the direct contact with nature, which has always characterized our gastronomic experience. We are working on a restyling of the outdoor spaces, with particular attention to lighting and garden architecture and furnishings. The goal is to create a welcoming and modern environment, without losing the link with the tradition and rustic character of our restaurant. We are also thinking of new initiatives for Friday evenings, such as evenings with live music, aperitifs and cocktails, to make the experience even more engaging and enjoyable.
V.L.: How would you describe the culinary philosophy and the gastronomic proposal of the restaurant? Have there been any recent changes in the kitchen or new dishes introduced?
A.F.: The philosophy of the restaurant is based on the balance of traditional and modern elements. The cuisine is rooted in Tuscan and Umbrian gastronomic culture, a real combination of flavours that reflects our geographical border position. The idea is to keep tradition alive, renewing it with modern touches and high-quality ingredients. For twenty-three years, the restaurant has been carrying out this project with passion, offering dishes that respect classic recipes but adapt to contemporary times and tastes. It is not a question of distorting, but of enhancing local, fresh and seasonal ingredients, such as truffles from the neighboring hills, blackthorns from April and May or asparagus, a return to genuine flavours that recall the traditions of our grandparents. In the kitchen, we try to maintain a coherent and recognizable offer, made up of simple but well-kept dishes, which tell the story of the territory. However, there is no shortage of experiments and seasonal additions, such as the introduction of particular meats from other regions, for example the Piedmontese Fassona or the Chianina, which are included in the menu selectively during the year.
V.L.: What is the relationship with local customers and foreign tourists? How has it evolved over the years?
A.F.: The relationship with our guests is one of the most rewarding and important aspects for the restaurant: over the years a loyal and loyal clientele has been consolidated, made up largely of local people who return regularly to enjoy quality cuisine and find a familiar and welcoming environment. This loyalty stems from a relationship of mutual trust: the restaurant offers an authentic and ‘reliable’ experience, with well-made dishes and attentive service, which aims to enhance the local gastronomic tradition. At the same time, we have expanded our catchment area from nearby cities such as Arezzo, Perugia and other neighbouring areas. In addition, there is a growing interest from Italian and foreign tourists looking for an authentic taste of our cuisine: the challenge is to serve dishes that can tell and communicate the essence of our territory.
V.L: What are the restaurant’s signature dishes that best represent the traditional cuisine of the area?
A.F.: One of the undisputed strengths of the restaurant is the homemade pasta, an essential element of our tradition. Ravioli are a great classic, present on the menu since the opening in 2002. Spinach ravioli – or tagliatelle with meat sauce and porcini mushrooms – are a must, dishes that perfectly embody the tradition of the Apennines. These courses are loved by the public because they tell a story made of simplicity and genuineness, with carefully selected and processed ingredients. Fresh handmade pasta is a hallmark of the restaurant and a source of pride for all the staff, who are committed to maintaining high quality and authenticity every day. In addition to the first courses, meat plays an important role in the menu, with a selection that favours local producers but also opens up to specialties from other Italian regions, to offer variety and quality without losing territorial identity.
V.L.: Are there any new features or projects underway to improve, if possible, the restaurant experience?
A.F.: Yes, there are several projects underway: one of the main ones concerns the outdoor area, with a restyling of the flowerbeds and plants, to make the garden even more welcoming and pleasant. This space, which overlooks Monterchi with a breathtaking view of the medieval village, will also be dedicated to special events such as aperitifs with live music and theme nights. In addition, we are working on our own completely original cocktail menu, developed with the help of a professional bartender, which offers creative and quality drinks, using special gins and selected products. The idea is to present a complete experience, which combines good food, a relaxing atmosphere and moments of sociability. The restaurant has three hectares of garden, one of which will be dedicated to evening aperitifs, while the others will see other initiatives during the week. This diversification will serve to stimulate the interest of our guests, keeping enthusiasm and curiosity alive.
V.L.: How do you balance the need to innovate with the importance of maintaining your territorial identity?
A.F.: This is a central theme for the restaurant: maintaining the gastronomic and cultural identity of the territory is a conscious and fundamental choice, because it represents a distinctive value. The fact is that you have to renew without betraying, update without forgetting for this reason, every novelty is carefully designed to fit harmoniously into the identity context. The cuisine remains faithful to its origins, but with a touch of modernity that makes it more current and attractive even to a young and international audience. Tradition thus becomes a starting point, not a limit: local ingredients are enhanced, historical recipes are respected, but new techniques, combinations and presentations are also experimented. This approach allows the restaurant to always keep up with the times, without losing its soul.
This interview allowed us to discover the essence of a restaurant that for over twenty years has been a gastronomic certainty on the border between Tuscany and Umbria. With new projects for the summer, renovated outdoor spaces, evening events with music and original cocktails, the restaurant is preparing to offer an even more complete and engaging experience. The passion for the territory and the desire to revive its gastronomic traditions in a modern key are the engine of this reality, which represents a real cultural and culinary heritage. If you are a lover of good food, Tuscan-Umbrian tradition and welcoming atmospheres, this restaurant is a must-see for a journey into taste that combines past and present, authentic flavours and the right experimentation.
Info and reservations: La Pieve Vecchia, Loc. la Pieve Vecchia 12, Monterchi (Ar) / Tel.: 0575 709053 / www.ristorantelapievevecchia.it / info@ristorantelapievevecchia.it