By Catia Giorni
He was just a child, Marco, when his father – a passionate truffle hunter – took him in what, to all intents and purposes, was a small ritual: going into the woods in search of the “hidden treasure”. Hours passed between leaves and roots, following the instinct and nose of the dogs; And in those moments, more than the truffle, a passion destined to remain took shape. Growing up, that bond with the land and its scents was intertwined with another desire: to offer people memorable moments, made of goodness, warmth and care.
From this idea was born the Trattoria Volpelli, a warm and welcoming place in the heart of Umbria, in the small hamlet of Calzolaro, in Umbertide, a stone’s throw from Cortona and the Upper Tiber Valley. When, in 2011, Marco and his wife Irina decided to start this business, the building was a historic meeting point in the town, but no one had ever done catering there. They were the ones who came up with every detail, building the restaurant from scratch and transforming it into what it is today: a “bet won”, as Marco likes to say.
From the beginning they chose that it would be the kingdom of the truffle: only fresh truffles, always chosen according to seasonality. Its scent welcomes guests already on the threshold and returns as the protagonist in the menu, which offers the most authentic dishes of the Umbrian tradition, with some Tuscan incursions. The appetizers are an invitation to conviviality, with platters full of cheeses and cold cuts of the highest quality.
Then come the first courses: cappelletti in broth, very popular in winter, agnolotti, ravioli. All pasta strictly homemade by Irina, the true queen of the kitchen. The idea of allowing guests to combine the type of pasta with the sauce they prefer is also original. There is no shortage of specialties such as gnocchi with Sagrantino or rigatoni alla Volpelli … And on the ingredients, no spoilers: it’s a secret of the chef. The only way to discover them is to sit down at the table.
The second courses enhance tradition: sliced meat, lamb scottadito and traditional roasts (goose, duck, chicken and lamb, etc …), coming from farmyard animals raised with care. And the desserts? There is no fixed card: Irina creates them every time based on the raw materials and inspiration of the moment. A little surprise at the end of the meal.
To accompany everything, a wine list personally curated by Marco and Irina, who prefer small wineries outside the large-scale distribution. Each label is told through a descriptive sheet that illustrates its characteristics: a real pleasure for those who love to discover. The same attention is paid to bitters: a local producer provides artisanal liqueurs – from limoncello to licorice liqueur – in which the quality is felt at the first sip.
From the choice of raw materials to advice on pairings, everything is designed to pamper guests. There is no shortage of “loyalists”, who once discovered the Trattoria Volpelli have never left it. Marco knows their tastes, their favourite table and, for the holidays, many book months in advance.
There are also numerous tourists, who often take away a bottle of wine or a liqueur to remember the experience. Over the years the restaurant has become more and more popular: the advice is to call to reserve your table, especially on weekends. Here, even on the busiest days, no one invites you to hurry: for Marco and Irina, the dishes should be enjoyed and the wine should be sipped calmly.
The Trattoria Volpelli is open every weekday for lunch with a fixed or à la carte menu, while in the evenings and on weekends it offers the à la carte menu. We try to satisfy every request and every occasion: whether it’s a family lunch or a romantic dinner, this place is always a perfect setting.
The goal, yesterday as today, is only one: to make guests feel at home, with genuine flavours that are difficult to find elsewhere. A plate of gnocchi with truffles, a glass of wine, and the rhythm of everyday life remains outside, while truly unforgettable moments are born in here.
Info: Trattoria Volpelli – Via Cortonese, 14 – Calzolaro di Umbertide (Pg)
Open every day for lunch and dinner; closed on Mondays. Reservation recommended
Tel. 075 9302305 – Cell. 333 8231350 / E-mail: irina.caproni@hotmail.it / www.trattoriadavolpelli.com