By Simone Bandini
“Spring will come soon,” he said. At that very moment, something cold and tiny brushed against the back of his hand. He watched it melt, a small snowflake, in the shape of a star…” And here it is, the hope, the desire to believe in it again...”
John Fante, Wait for Spring, Bandini (1939)
The coming spring has something of winter in it, just as every change does not completely subvert the previous condition. We are at Poggio Paradiso to test this philosophical reflection by John Fante, a great Italian-American writer, like our friend Chris Romani – who calls us together here, revealing two great news about this noble resort, placed like a star on the hills overlooking the ancient village of Torrita di Siena to the west.
The Romani family invests time and energy in their Italian dream. Poggio Paradiso Resort is now an unmissable destination for those who want to discover the intimacy and charm of classic Tuscany, along the Via Lauretana between Cortona and Siena. The property was purchased by Tim Romani, Chris’ older brother in 2023 and, since then, there have been many renovations and updates to the services offered – which place it today in the Olympus of local hospitality. The resort is scheduled to reopen from April 1, 2025.
This spring there are two new additions to the spectacular eight suites, each of which bears the name of a Tuscan grape variety. I had the privilege of sleeping for a night in the ‘Sangiovese’ suite and I still have the vivid memory of a wonderful sleep in an endless queen size bed, to wake up in the morning in peace and communion with nature and the melodious song of the nightingales to announce the day – by the way, have they already returned from the African winter?
Work is now proceeding to modernise the Spa set in an intimate and well-collected space on the ground floor: whirlpool, Finnish sauna, salt vapor room, red light therapy chamber and a selection of anti-fatigue and relaxing massages on request. Chris explains how the current Spa is being updated and there will be two subsequent phases, called ‘thermal’ and ‘water’. The architecture of the new Spa will recall a beehive, combining the prodigious magic of treatments inspired by honey and the world of bees. Works should be completed by the month of May.
In the meantime, we can spoil ourselves with the contemporary cuisine of the L’Olivo restaurant – available to the resort but also to guests outside the structure – of which Chris gives us a sensational scoop: new commander, the kitchen will be the kingdom of the native chef Alessandro Goracci – whom we are very, very curious to interview.
Good morning Alessandro, tell us a little about your professional history. Tuscan tradition but also different international experiences, right?
“I have spent part of my life in the Chianti hills, appreciating all that is beautiful. Later, I moved to Australia and stayed there for eight years. I was able to get to know cultures and cuisines different from the Italian one. After this beautiful adventure I returned to my beloved Tuscany. My last experience was at Castello di Casole where I met professional people who helped me grow even more”.
Speaking of this, what can you tell us about the new menu of the L’Olivo Restaurant of Poggio Paradiso Resort? Will it always be a kitchen with ‘contemporary’ elements?
“As for the type of cuisine, it will be contemporary, with some reinterpretations of classic dishes. An example above all: ‘Pici mare e monti’, mushrooms that will meet shrimps, a famous and popular dish in past years, revisited in a modern key. We do not forget that tradition is our starting point – while experimentation can be the goal”.
Elements and raw materials of great quality, local, but also techniques and gourmet preparations?
“The use of an excellent raw material is fundamental. A ‘good’ dish always starts with ‘good’ quality ingredients used correctly and above all with respect for their essence. Freshness, simplicity (simple is not synonymous with easy) are two other important elements for a perfect success of the dish”.
To return to simplicity: what is your favourite cuisine, how would you define it?
“The cuisine I prefer is the one made with passion and love: in my dishes there are these two ingredients that are not secret. I am convinced that many people feel when a food is made with passion and heart; without, I don’t think there can be good food”.
Meat or fish? Or both?
“The menu will consist of land and sea dishes, trying to follow the course of the seasons as much as possible. In the summer, fresher dishes: carpaccio, crudités, cannelloni stuffed with crunchy vegetables. From Autumn, more substantial dishes such as ‘Cappellacci duck and saffron’, ‘Tagliatelle with wild boar ragout’, ‘Braised veal cheeks'”. Yummy! (ed.)
Are there any dishes that represent you and that, although updated and revisited, you carry with you as a chef?
“Those that remind me of the places where I have been and lived: they are part of my personal culture”.
You must try this extraordinary resort. Spring has arrived here: like a light snowflake that has melted in the sun, this great Italian American family has created with strength and ambition a unique place of its kind, where you can spend moments of authentic ‘forgetfulness’, our Neapolitan actor Totò would have said.
Info: Poggio Paradiso Resort, Loc. Torrita di Siena (Si) / Tel. and Whatsapp 338 5211390 / www.poggioparadisoresort.com / info@poggioparadisoresort.com
