By Catia Giorni
A stone farmhouse, a cuisine rooted in tradition, and a warm welcome that instantly makes you feel at home: this is how La Pieve Vecchia wins over its guests.
We arrive just before lunchtime on a mild March day. We are still in Tuscany, yet only a few steps from Umbria – a borderland whose soft, luminous landscapes seem to capture the best of both regions.
We spot the restaurant from afar: a beautifully restored stone farmhouse, immersed in the quiet of the countryside, radiating a sense of warmth and hospitality. We park in the spacious area in front of the entrance and, almost as if to welcome us, a tree in full pink bloom brightens the garden. A small detail, perhaps, but enough to lift the mood.
Welcome to La Pieve Vecchia, a restaurant that for over twenty years has been a point of reference for locals and for the many visitors who come to this part of the Valtiberina.
As soon as we step inside, we know we are in the right place. Andrea Fontana, the owner, greets us with a smile and shows us to our table. Within minutes, a glass of prosecco and a basket of warm bread arrive, accompanied by freshly made ciaccia: a simple start, yet one that immediately conveys the spirit of the house.
The menu invites you to take your time. We begin with two starters: a selection of mixed bruschettas and a pumpkin flan with pecorino fondue and a hint of crushed amaretti. The bruschettas are a delightful surprise—a great Tuscan classic reinterpreted with creativity and flair. The wooden board features combinations that win you over at the first bite: sausage with soft cheese, guanciale with caramelized red onion and cannellini beans, melted taleggio with porcini mushrooms. My favorite, perhaps unsurprisingly, is the one with robiola, grilled eggplant, and pistachio crumbs.
The flan also deserves special mention. Presented with seasonal variations, it arrives at the table beautifully plated, with a perfectly balanced harmony of flavors.
For our first course, we choose pici with guanciale, cherry tomatoes, and pecorino shavings—a true delight. Yet the menu offers plenty of tempting alternatives, from traditional dishes such as tagliatelle with ragù or porcini mushrooms to more original creations like chestnut tagliatelle with ossobuco ragù and porcini. For those who prefer stuffed or short pasta, there are equally enticing options, such as potato tortelli with artichokes, sausage, rosemary, and egg cream. All the pasta, of course, is handmade, in full respect of local tradition.
The main courses range from timeless classics to more creative proposals. Alongside the ever-popular Florentine steak and sliced veal, we opt for a Milanese-style sirloin with horseradish cream and cardoncelli mushrooms. The result is a dish with a bold yet balanced character: the meat is incredibly tender, while the horseradish cream adds an aromatic note that enhances every bite.
What stands out is not only the presentation—never predictable—but also the generous portions and the quality of the ingredients, evident from the very first taste. This attention to detail has become one of La Pieve Vecchia’s defining traits over the years.
Perhaps this is what makes guests feel instantly at home, despite the elegant and carefully curated setting. A glance around the room is enough to understand. The restaurant is spacious and arranged over two floors: on the ground floor, during winter, you can choose a table by the fireplace for a more intimate atmosphere. Upstairs, a large hall is perfect for business dinners, birthday parties, or baptisms, while smaller, more private rooms are ideal for a romantic dinner or a quiet moment.
One of the restaurant’s true strengths, however, is its outdoor space. In the garden at the back, with the arrival of the warmer months, guests can enjoy lunch or dinner immersed in one of the most evocative views of the Valtiberina, among the hills surrounding Monterchi. From May onwards, the garden becomes a small oasis. On summer evenings, it is not uncommon to witness spectacular sunsets, often framed by sunflower fields glowing in the golden light.
Its location also makes the restaurant an ideal stop for those visiting Monterchi, perhaps after admiring one of Piero della Francesca’s most captivating masterpieces, the Madonna del Parto, housed in the town’s museum.
As evening falls, the offering expands to include another cornerstone of Italian conviviality: pizza. Here too, the menu ranges from traditional options to more refined combinations, designed to satisfy a wide variety of tastes and the many families who choose this restaurant.
Andrea and his team have made hospitality their philosophy: ensuring every guest feels at ease, and creating tailored menus for special occasions when needed.
When we leave La Pieve Vecchia, we do so with a smile—and with that rare feeling only certain places can offer: the desire to return.
Because La Pieve Vecchia is not just a restaurant. It is one of those places where cuisine, landscape, and hospitality come together, turning a simple meal into an experience to remember.
Info: La Pieve Vecchia – Loc. Pieve Vecchia, 12 – Monterchi (AR) /Tel. 0575 709053
www.ristorantelapievevecchia.it