By Simone Bandini
We went back to our friends Silvia and Marcello – the two siblings who run ‘Golosità Umbre’, lovers of taste and authenticity typical of inland Umbria. From the collection of typical, preserved and fresh products to local sausages and cheese, from the highly appreciated restaurant for the lunch break – this time we turn our gaze to the butcher shop that selects fine local cuts, traditional charcuterie, the rediscovered fifth quarter and ready-to-cook gastronomy.
So let’s see what ‘our’ Marcello thinks of the fashions of the moment: “Well, I go a bit against the tide of what the market is; all of them, lately, are fascinated by the Chianina or in any case by the purebred breed. All this is simply not possible here! We use local breeders who have a little bit of everything… they do have the Chianina, but there are certainly other excellent meat breeds. We therefore meet each other, depending on availability and great ‘discoveries’ are made about farms. Let’s be clear: it’s not that Chianina is less good, I don’t say that and I appreciate it. However, the meat can be too muscular, tough, it also depends clearly on where it comes from”.
In short, we say, the fact that it costs more and that it has established itself in the national market does not mean that it is the best. I think just like him.
There are also on display beautiful boutique steaks, with different maturations. “What can you tell us about this showcase: Is this also a fashion of the moment?”
“Yes, maturations are not excessive, I would say well calibrated as a good butcher should know. Taking maturations to the extreme, even in this case, I would say is a ‘fashionable’ excess to be avoided. In reality, these steaks in the window that you see in the premises are nothing more than a ‘commercial gimmick’, as the butcher has always used the steaks with skill, behind the scenes – only instead of keeping them in cold storage, which no one saw them, now they are exposed because this is required”.
Because they have to be seen, in fact. Fashions are also built with constant proposal, they must be under the eyes: “But those there, which I also have on display, are the same steaks of cattle that are butchered. You won’t find meat from abroad here. There is no ‘Polish’ meat. There is the meat of Peppe, Francesco and company!”
Then he continues: “It is clear that sometimes one would perhaps like a more marbled meat, it is understandable. But to revive and support the circular, local economy, the farmer knows that you get ten calves a year – and those are! It’s not that you say, I don’t take this because I know he’s thin. You have to take it from him”.
We are fascinated but not surprised by his loyalty to the territory and its people: “But then frankly, if you come to eat in a place like this, you have to be an expression of the territory. It is useless to find Japanese Wagyu,” he adds.
“You can eat it in the cities, taking away your whim. When they tell me they don’t want meat in the window but that of the blending cell, I say yes – if they don’t like the cut, I can satisfy you the old-fashioned way”.
“And you, Marcello, what is it that you like to eat the most?”. “Well, butchers generally never eat fillets. First of all, you have to sell them, right?” He laughs about it… “But that’s not it. Of course I like a good steak, as much as a good fillet, but I prefer cooked meat. Then a stew, or a braised meat. So much so that you have to be good at it, all in all you have to dedicate yourself to it a little. It’s not an exaggeration, is it?”
I definitely appreciate the veiled, sharp, very current irony of modernity without ‘fatigue’ – with all its comforts and its limits.
“We eat many good second cuts,” he continues, “that maybe people discard because they have a nerve, or a little more fat.” A bit like the little worm on the apple, isn’t it? “Exactly”.
It is not understood how in nature a fruit, as well as a perfect cut of meat, have biological limits, are not authentic.
“I love and propose the ‘Fifth Quarter’, the so-called poor cuts – which are not poor – liver, tripe are tasty … then the boiled meats are delicious, I’m crazy about them!”
Okay, I declare myself satisfied.
“Are you pleading guilty?”
“No, no, I declare myself satisfied. It was a really good conversation.”
“But you know I have to take a picture of you, huh?”
“This is harder!”
Info: Info: Golosità Umbre, Via Eugubina 45, Fossato di Vico (Pg) / Tel 339 2346870 (Reservations are recommended for lunch for the restaurant)